Sleepover: Burnsall Manor House

A bed in Yorkshire

Where is it?

Set amid hills on the banks of the River Wharfe in Burnsall, one of the prettiest villages in the Yorkshire Dales. It's down the road from the bustling little town of Grassington and within easy reach of York and Harrogate.

What's it like?

A gratifyingly unmodernised 19th-century house, with snug rooms, all with high ceilings, decorated in a no-fuss, traditional manner.

What's its USP?

This comfortable guest house has a three-diamond rating and is excellent value at £28.50 per person per night (based on two sharing).

Ambience?

Relaxed and other-worldly; you're here to languish in the beauty of a Dales retreat. Breakfast – in an adapted shed out back – goes on for hours. You can kindle your own barbie any time, if you're up to it, or spend evenings in front of the sitting-room log fire, sampling the bar.

Service?

Joe Lodge, the manager, is the quintessential Jeeves: out of sight until you want him, then he's suddenly there, all mellow and attentive, a fount of local knowledge. But come late evening, when Joe has left, it's just you, any other guests, creaking floorboards and the wind outside.

Rooms?

Eight rooms over two floors. There's only one room not en suite, but whoever gets it is laughing, as it has its own lavish bath and a snooper's view of the main street.

Food?

Although you can order food ahead at The Manor House, it's easiest to make for the Red Lion pub (01756 720204) in the centre of the village. Run by an assortment of Frenchmen ("Eez from Toulouse and I'm from Paris," the barman told me), it serves fortifying soups, rich meat dishes, fresh fish and scrumptious puddings in the bar and restaurant. Beers are kept well, with Theakstons of note.

Clientele?

Weary walkers and cyclists, taking advantage of the constant hot water and drying facilities. You might also catch a few Brontë and James Herriot groupies, as it's in their neck of the woods.

Things to do?

Traipse across the Dales or follow the riverside path at the bottom of the hotel's garden. Or visit cute Grassington, four miles north, with its summer literary festival, and the wondrous ruins of Bolton Abbey.

Address?

The Manor House Hotel, Main Street, Burnsall, near Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 6BW (01756 720231; www.manorhouseuk.co.uk).