Sleepover: Clift Hotel

A bed in San Francisco

Where is it?

In the heart of San Francisco.

What's it like?

The latest Ian Schrager hotel, designed as usual by Philippe Starck, is a mix of the ultra-trendy, the grand luxe and – surprisingly – the rather relaxed.

What's its USP?

It was the first earthquake-proof hotel built in the city (1915) and at the time was cutting-edge, so Schrager's updating can claim to be in the same spirit. In 1933, its huge Redwood Room opened, panelled floor to ceiling with the wood of a single giant redwood, legend has it. It has now been gently updated with an etched mirror-glass bar and subtle digital art, which looks like illuminated photographs until, when you least expect it, the subjects move, wink or fade away. It's one of the city's hotspots for drinking and "being seen" in. In the lobby there is an oversized Louis XV-style chair and a massive sculpted hearth to set a surreal tone.

Service?

The staff at all Ian Schrager hotels are immaculately dressed and impeccably mannered. Sometimes they seem so model-ish that it is hard to believe they could be efficient, too. Here, though, they manage to be effortlessly on top of every situation and even unintimidatingly friendly.

Rooms?

They range from small but airy to suites with their own dressing area, dining table and extra bedroom with two huge beds and independent access for families with children or, we are told, guests who bring their own security staff. Rates range from £220 per night for a room to £1,350 for a deluxe suite.

Food?

Breakfast is served in the sumptuous restaurant, which becomes Asia de Cuba for lunch and dinner. Bisected by a huge mirror-glass, crucifix-shaped, raised table, the room has a light, airy quality despite the dark wood – although in the evening the lights are low. The food is a combination of high-class diner and simple but eclectic. For other meals it follows the style of Asia de Cuba restaurants: Asian and Cuban cuisine ordered for the table to share.

Clientele?

A smattering of stars and businessmen in the Redwood Room in the evenings but enough locals and out-of-towners to make it relaxed for everyone.

Things to do?

The city has enough to do to keep the most active happy, from seeing the Golden Gate Bridge and taking a cable-car ride to visiting Alcatraz.

Address?

Clift Hotel, 495 Geary St, San Francisco, California CA 94102 (00 1 800 652 5438; www.clifthotel.com).