Wines of the week: Six wines for a September Indian summer

We all live in hope that summer doesn’t dramatically end after the August bank holiday, so now is, probably, your last chance to drink that super-chilled rose in the garden, says Terry Kirby

As the evenings have grown darker, I’ve taken to eating and drinking out in the garden even more. No, I’m not getting any more eccentric, but just making the most of the largely fine weather of the past two weeks or so, relishing the special flavours of wine and food eaten outdoors in early autumn – candlelight essential, throws and jumpers optional – before autumn really catches us up and the first fires are lit.

My new monster gas barbecue, great to use in almost any climate, may be a factor as well... as is the refusal to countenance the fact that my inbox is already full of suggestions for Christmas columns.

And after last weekend’s warm weather, the forecast for this weekend is decent, with sun on the cards for much of the country. So, with copious apologies for anyone reading this who is in a part of the UK already deep into autumn, what wines do we want for an Indian summer, whether we are eating in or out?

This may well be the last weekend we might enjoy a chilled rose, which I only ever prefer when the sun is out, so make the most of it with a gorgeous new English rose, the Off the Line Hip Rose 2018 (£15.99 waitrosecellar.com, £18.99 gerrys.uk.com) made by Kristina Studzinski and partner Ann-Marie Tynan, who gave up their careers as a government lawyer and fine-wine investment broker respectively to retrain as winemakers.

Made at their boutique winery in East Sussex from 100 per cent pinot noir, it is in the modern Provencal style: very pale, very dry, restrained and very linear cherry and raspberry fruit flavours. At just 10.5 per cent ABV it’s the perfect weekend lunch or picnic wine, to accompany, say, a frittata or savoury flans and salads. And just a few years ago an impossible aspiration for English winemakers.

Another rose new to me and currently on excellent discount is the Domaine De Jarras Pink Flamingo Rose 2015 (£8.99 normally £12.99, until 8 October, ocado.com), very spicy and orange tinted, made from grenache grapes grown in the sun-baked Camargue in the Rhone estuary in the south of France – home to many pink flamingos and accounting for the slight saline notes on the palate. Excellent with any grilled fish – red mullet on my new barbecue would be ideal – fish soups or crustacea.

For white wines, particularly if the day is turning chilly, its best to avoid zesty, light-as-air wines and go for something a little more substantial. Made from a grape unknown until just a few years ago, the Rioja Vega Tempranillo Blanco 2017 (£11.99 houseoftownend.com, £13.99 gustowines.co.uk) derives its complexity from ageing in oak, but remains deliciously full bodied and rounded with green herbs and ripe tropical fruits on the palate; it was a great match for my first attempt at using the closed barbecue to smoke a piece of salmon.

Equally good and for completely different reasons were the white pepper, stone fruit and citrus flavours of the Winzer Krems Gruner Veltliner 2018 (£7.99 if bought as part of mixed six-bottle purchase; majestic.co.uk); a great introduction to Austria’s finest white grape, although this would also work very well some pan-fried rose veal or flattened and spiced chicken breast on the griddle.

Now for some reds. What we are seeking here are wines that straddle the divide between the lighter reds of summer and the weightier, warming bottles we will be seeking in just a few weeks’ time.

The Baciato Puglia Negroamaro Primitivo (£9.99 virginwines.co.uk) is a blend of southern Italy’s finest grapes, combing to create the flavour of early autumn in a glass – juicy brambly flavours, redolent of plums and blackberries, shot through with leavening fresh acidity that keeps it fresh on the palate.

While this would be fabulous with any pasta or pizza, it’s a wonderful accompaniment to an apple and blackberry crumble, the perfect seasonal pudding. And if the weather does turn a little cooler, then turn to the Altano Organic Douro (£7.99 normally £10.99 until 8 October, waitrose.com), made by the Symington port family from organically grown port grapes; it’s full of smoothly unctuous brambly flavours, but with a more substantial backbone of liquorice and woody notes.

A great accompaniment to a whole chicken on my new barbecue rotisserie. And warming enough to keep me company out in the garden at night, ignoring the odd looks from the neighbours...