Wines of the week: 7 Italian wines aside from prosecco

Aside from Italy’s most famed wine, Terry Kirby reminds us there’s more to their vino repertoire than champagne’s rival

Asked to name one Italian wine and most would probably answer ‘prosecco!’ – such is the dominance of the sparkler. When it comes to red wines, of course, most also name Chianti, despite its suffering from over familiarity and variable quality.

And while the fine wine market has long appreciated the big names of barolo, amarone and the so-called ‘Super-Tuscans’, compared to the glamour of French reds or the straightforward, varietal-based wines of the New World, many Italian wines just don’t seem to get a look in.

Perhaps it is about confusing labelling, marketing and classifying of wines. But some is about less well known grapes lacking identity in the same way as, say, malbec or pinot noir. Maybe only Sicilian wines, like those from the Nero d’Avola grape, are striving towards more individual recognition.

Against this background, where does the consumer find good Italian red wines, for both special occasions and everyday drinking?

A place to start is the relatively new [to the UK] website of Tannico, who claim to be Italy’s largest online retailer. They’re aiming to introduce domestic consumers to previously unknown Italian delights, among their 6,000-strong range. These include the gorgeous Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Malandrino Cataldi Madonna 2015 (£18.10, tannico.co.uk): big, meaty, packed with rich black and red fruit and some spice, with a long, long finish. It’s ideal with steak and venison, or autumn casseroles. For a little more, you can find the very similar but even bigger and beefier Marina Cvetic Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2013, (£22.00 buonvino.co.uk; £24.00 ewwines.co.uk).

Both are fabulous wines from Abruzzo and – this is the kind of thing that baffles consumers – made from the multipulciano grape, not to be confused with vino nobile de montepulciano, made near the Tuscan town of that name, but from the sangiovese grape.

Speaking of Tuscan wines made from Sangiovese, the wines of Brunello di Montalcino [actually named after another town; hope you are keeping up] are among those like vino nobile and barolo venerated for their longevity and complexity. Try the Rosso di Montalcino 2015 from the Ill Colle vineyard (£20.70 or £220.80 for 12, handc.co.uk) which at 14.5 ABV packs real power and needs decanting several hours before drinking, ideally with a big baked pasta or robust meat dishes. It will improve with keeping, as will its big brother, Ill Colle’s Brunello di Montalicino 2012 (£35.20 or £375 for 12 handc.co.uk) which should definitely not be broached until at least this time next year.

Not a fan of heavy, tannic reds? From the north-eastern region of Veneto try the more fragrant, cherry and strawberry-fruit laden but with a spicy undertow Pieropan Ruberpan Valpolicella Superiore Vigna Garzon 2013 (£19.99 onlinewineshopuk.com; £22.99 provenderbrown.co.uk

Organically made from a Corvina-dominated blend by a family firm that also produces top quality Soave white, this is perfect with lighter meats and, just very slightly chilled, with tuna, salmon or goats cheese. If you like lighter Pinots, this should hit the spot.

For more everyday drinking, head to the opposite end of Italy where the Basilicata region is a fantastic place for juicy, medium-to-full-bodied and fruit-forward reds made from grapes like Primitivo and Aglicano. Try the Wine Society’s richly fruity Basilicata Primitivo Sterparo Alovini 2016 (£8.50, thewinesociety.com) from their range of well-sourced Italian regional wines or the Messapi Aglicano Del Vulture 2015 (£11.00 Marksandspencer.com) where the mineral rich volcanic soils around Mount Vulture deliver terrific fresh vibrancy to the red fruit flavours.