Soften the crunch: Skye Gyngell reveals how to get the best out of early-autumn pears

Firm, early-autumn pears have quite a bite – but bake them in a tart, poach them in wine or soak them in sherry and their sweetly soft nature will soon shine through. Skye Gyngell shows how

The pear trees espaliered against the north-facing wall in our garden have started to bear fruit. Not yet fully ripe, their taste is slightly sharp – almost lemony – and their texture firm. In the early autumn they are best gently cooked, their flavour becoming more pronounced and delicate in the process, and their flesh softer. Here's some recipes to ease you into early autumn gently.

Skye Gyngell is head chef at Petersham Gardens, Church Lane, Richmond, Surrey, tel: 020 8605 3627, www.petershamnurseries.com

Pears baked with Pedro Ximénez sherry, brown sugar and crème fraîche

This is a lovely, simple, early-autumn dessert. These pears came from our garden and I am not entirely sure of their variety, but conference pears are what they most closely resemble – a variety that is easy to find and has an earthy, slightly roughly textured skin. Please don't peel them, as they are much nicer when the skin is left on. Pedro Ximénez is a dark, raisiny sweet variety of sherry that lends depth and richness to this dish; you can, however, use Marsala if you prefer.

Serves 4

4 pears
200ml/7fl oz Pedro Ximénez
3 tbsp dark brown sugar
The peel of one lemon
1 vanilla pod, split in half lengthwise
3 tbsp crème fraîche, with extra to serve

Heat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas4. Slice the pears in half lengthwise and scoop out the cores using a small spoon. Lay the pears skin-side down in a roasting tray and pour over the sherry. Scatter over the sugar and tuck in the lemon peel and vanilla.

Cover the entire tray tightly with aluminium foil and place on the middle shelf of the oven. Bake for 45 minutes then remove from the oven, take off the foil and stir in the crème fraîche.

Return to the oven for a further 15 minutes, by which time the pears should be cooked through but still retaining their shape. They should also be honey-brown and very glossy.

Remove, and set aside to cool to room temperature. Serve with an extra dollop of crème fraîche alongside.

During the colder winter months to come, these pears will be even more comforting when served warm.

Salad of poached pears, walnuts and Gorgonzola

This salad has an undeniable feel of autumn about it. We are now seeing nuts for the first time, pears are in abundance and it feels time to leave lighter, summery cheeses behind for something a little stronger. I like to use the Gorgonzola known as Dolcelatte; it is younger, softer in taste and creamier in texture than Gorgonzola naturale. Though if you prefer something a little stronger, do go with that – it's firmer, with a sharp bite. The pears here are pickled in red wine, a few herbs and a little sugar – their colour becomes a beautifully glossy ruby-red.

Serves 2

180ml/6fl oz red wine
40g/11/2oz caster sugar
A small bunch of thyme
2 fresh bay leaves
2 firm ripe pears
100g/31/2oz freshly shelled walnuts
A very small bunch of white dandelion
A few sprigs of rocket
200g/7oz Gorgonzola

For the dressing

1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp red-wine vinegar
75ml/3fl oz walnut oil
75ml/3fl oz olive oil
A little salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the wine into a saucepan along with the sugar, thyme and bay leaves. Bring to a simmer over a medium heat. Peel and core the pears and cut into quarters, place in the pan with the red wine, poach for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the pears to cool in the poaching liquid.

Now shell the walnuts, wash and gently pat dry the salad leaves and slice the Gorgonzola into fine slices.

To make the dressing, put the mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper into a bowl and whisk together well. Gradually pour in the oil, whisking while you do so. Arrange the ingredients attractively on a plate and spoon over the dressing. Serve at once.

Strawberry and pear tart

This is the recipe I use for a basic fruit tart, making what the French call pâte sucrée, a buttery pastry. It needs nothing other than generous spoonfuls of fruit. Strawberries go nicely with pears; their flavour is surprisingly powerful when cooked. The quantity of pastry given here is a little more than is needed but it is better to have too much than too little.

Serves 8

1 10-inch tart tin with a removable base

For the pastry

500g/16oz plain flour
250g/8oz unsalted butter, very cold and diced into small cubes
11/2 tsp caster sugar
2-3 drops of vanilla extract
3 tbsp cold water
1 whole egg

For the filling

3 pears, peeled, cored and sliced into small chunks
1 vanilla pod, split in half
The peel of one unwaxed lemon
80ml/3fl oz of water
A dozen strawberries, hulled and sliced in half lengthwise

For the top

1 egg, beaten
150g/5oz caster sugar
2 tsp sugar

Place the flour and butter into a food processor and pulse until you have the consistency of rough breadcrumbs. Now add the sugar, vanilla, water and egg. Turn on the machine and mix until the dough forms a ball. If you don't have a processor, combine quickly with cool hands using fridge-cold butter. Knead the mixture once or twice on a floured surface, roll in cling film and refrigerate for half an hour to rest.

Place the pears over a medium to low heat, add the vanilla, lemon peel and water and cook gently until the pears are tender but still holding their shape. This should take about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to return to room temperature. Stir in the strawberries and set aside while you roll out the pastry.

Divide the pastry in half; place one half on a floured work surface and roll out to an eighth-inch thick. Line the tart shell with the pastry, prick the base with a fork and return to the fridge to chill for 20 minutes.

Heat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas4. Line the base of the tart with parchment paper, fill with baking beans and bake on the middle shelf for 10 minutes. Take out from the oven and remove the baking beans. The base should be just dry and biscuity and the edges beginning to brown slightly.

Allow to cool a little then spoon in the fruit mixture. Roll out the second half of the pastry and gently lay over the top, pressing firmly into the edges with your thumbs. Using a little knife, place a cross in the centre and brush generously with the egg wash and scatter over the sugar. Place in the fridge for 10 minutes then return to the oven for 20 minutes, at which time the top should be golden-brown and the fruit slightly bubbling up over the sides. Serve either warm or at room temperature, with lots of pouring cream.